“As one lands on Penang one is impressed even before reaching the shore by the blaze of colour in the costumes in the crowds which through the jetty.”
- Isabella Bird, 19th century English traveler and writer
Every genius has his roots. Each marvel springs from a source. In 1925, a young sailor from Lho’ Seumawe in Acheh by the name of Teuku Nyak Puteh settled in Penang to marry a quiet lass from Butterworth, Che Mah Hussein. As the modest couple began a new life in a village, it is unlikely they could in their wildest dreams have imagined that they would have a son who would some day become a legend.
P. Ramlee became just that; an icon whose stature rang across the continent, the most consummate entertainer – actor, director, singer, composer, storyteller and Malaysia has seen or is ever likely to.
It all began at a tiny address in Penang island – 4A Caunter Hall Road – a humble house typical of a Malay kampung structure raised on stilts with attap-thatched roofing, corrugated sheets of iron, and wooden floors.
Ramlee was born on March 22, on the festive day of Hari Raya Aidilfitri – of 1929. After 44 days he was taken to his parents’ home in Kampung Jawa, but in later years kept coming to Caunter Hall till his groundbreaking move to the illustrious studio of the Shaw Brothers in Singapore.
Along his career, he was awarded the best male actor for Anakku Sazali at the Asian Film Festival in Tokyo. While his Pendekar Bujang Lapok won the best comedy at the same festival held in Kuala Lumpur, and also he was given an extraordinary award as Asia’s Most Versatile Talent for his performance in Ibu Mertuaku.
When he died of a heart attack at the age of only 45 years at his last home in Kuala Lumpur, he had acted in 60 films and directed 37. He has also crooned more than 250 original songs – including tunes that are now immortal classics such as Bunyi Guitar, Malam ku Bermimpi, Jeritan Batinku and the immensely melodious Jangan Tinggal Daku.
In fact, unknown to many, Ramlee’s original name was Teuku Zakaria bin Teuku Nyak Puteh. His father, the Achehnese sailor, later changed it on the advice his elder brother.
Leeazlin Johan, 30, a true fan of P. Ramlee described that loosing the big star as him was such a big waste. He also feels proud because P. Ramlee was born in Penang, his hometown.
“Until today, there were no artist that down to earth like P. Ramlee and can replace his place and there is Jalan P. Ramlee where his house was situated,” he said.
Meanwhile, Fatimah Abu, 58 said that she still likes watching all P.Ramlee’s movies.
“My family really likes watching P. Ramlee’s movies especially Pendekar Bujang Lapok, Laksamana Doremi, Ibu Mertuaku and lots more. I had never got bored and had been watching it almost 30 times through her life,” she said.
Today, coconut trees still sway near Ramlee’s birth place and children in surrounding village can be heard at play just like ages ago. The portraits of Teuku Nyak Puteh and his wife Che Mah now hang within the house that 75 years ago ushered in a child destined for stardom, and everything started in Penang.
Penang is widely known as the Pearl of the Orient. Penang is one of Asia’s most famous islands. Its natural beauty and exotic heritage have been attracting curious visitors for centuries.
Travel guides have referred to it as a place of mysterious temples and palm-shrouded beaches while literary giant Somerset Maugham is known to have stayed on the island and spun tales about the romance of the white planter in South-East Asia.
Today Penang is very much an amalgam of the old and the new – a bustling port, a heritage city and an industrial base. Perhaps it has more to offer per square mile than any other place in the world. For sheer variety of locales, cultures and foods, Penang is hard to beat. In its capital Georgetown, modern skyscrapers rise from one of Southeast Asia’s largest collections of intact prewar buildings. Manufactures of sophisticated electronic goods compete for space with wet markets and old temples. Where else can you find a century-old church, a Chinese temple, an Indian temple, and a Muslim mosque all within a five-minute walk from one another? Likewise, tall urban structures stand beside the red-tiled roofs of Chinatown and “Little India” is just across the road, while the Malay kampungs lie on the outskirts. The seamless melding of the many peoples of Penang is best reflected in the delicious hawker foods (available around the clock) and the adherence to traditions and customs. Festivals abound throughout the year.
Should one wish to get away from the busy city, the idlyllic beaches and soothing hills are but minutes away, while the industrial free trade zone, the “Silicon Valley of the East”, and the international airport are equally accessible.
Penang or its Malay name of Pulau Pinang is made up of a turtle-shaped island, a total of 292 square kilometers, and a strip of land called Seberang Prai on Peninsular Malaysia about 48 kilometers wide.
Since 1985, the island has been joined to the mainland by the Penang Bridge, one of the longest bridges in the world. Alternatively, travellers arriving from the mainland can hop onto the ferry and take a 20-minute ride across. There are also international flights that connect directly to the international airport on the island.
Name calling
Early Malays call it “Pulau Ka Satu” or “Single Island”. “Pulau Pinang” is the Malay name for Penang. Literally translated, Pulau Pinang means “Island of the Betel Nut Tree”.
The British renamed it “Prince of Wales’ Island” and its township “Georgetown” (after King George III). After Malaysia’s independence, the name reverted to “Penang” and “Pulau Pinang”. Georgetown still stands as the city’s name, but Malays refer to it as “Tanjung” (Headland). To further complicate matters, locals commonly refer to the city and island simply as “Penang”.
The strip of land on the mainland is still called “Province Wellesley” and “Seberang Prai”. Many places and street names are still undergoing change as colonial names are being exchanged for Malay ones.
Penang is also attached with such romantic titles by its admirers: “Pearl of the Orient”, “Gateway to the East”, and “Isle of Temples”.
Penang Beaches
Penang and its beaches cannot been separated. Although there was a big disaster occurred in December 2003, it does not a reason for the tourists to abandon it. Batu Feringghi, Teluk Bahang, Tanjung Bungah and Pantai Teluk Kampi is the famous beaches in Malaysia.
Batu Feringghi’s atmosphere and feel can be likened to Patong Beach in Phuket. At night, the entire road along the beach is transformed into a hive of activity as traders set up stalls and proclaim the areas as a night market. During this time, visitors can see the wide variety of goods on sale from trinkets to T-shirts and even taste local culinary delicacies like Assam Laksa.
Teluk Bahang offers a peaceful environment and breezy wind. It is near by Batu Feringghi. Those who crave isolated beaches should go to Teluk Duyung, Monkey Beach and Pantai Kerachut.
Tanjung Bungah is located closely to Georgetown. It is hidden among lush greenery and rocky landscapes. Some claim that the views of the horizon from the beach are simply the best in Penang.
Pantai Teluk Kampi is the longest stretch of beach in the Penang National Park. Between February to April, Teluk Kampi becomes a special place for sea turtles to nest.
All these beaches are not only for swimming and resting, but some of the visitors likely choose these places for their wedding or honeymoon at here. Josephine Lee Eng, 34, which married for two years, admits that she feels comfortable with the beaches.
“Since I came here for a seminar in 2005, I had fallen in love with this place and this is my second anniversary at here. I wish to spend my anniversary at here every year,” she said.
A foreigner student, Lim Yuan Jue, 20, said that she loves the nature of the beach and it is really a relaxing place.
“As I reach here, I thought that I was at Bali or Phuket as seen on television. The beaches is so beautiful and I feel satisfied”.
Penang Dishes
Among Penangites, Assam Laksa is the trademark for their dishes. A bowl of steamed spaghetti-sized rice vermicelli is first generously garnished with finely sliced vegetables including onions, cucumber, red chillis, pineapple, lettuce, mint and pink bunga kantan (ginger buds).
Onto the mixture is poured a steaming hot curry soup that is sour and thick with fish meat. A spoonful of fish paste is provided for those who favour the addition.
Balik Pulau is the famous place for its Assam Laksa. The corner coffee shop opposite the T-junction leading into the main and only street of Balik Pulau houses the most popular laksa stall in the village. Both varieties match in quality. The sour variety has maintained its sharp yet exciting flavour and aroma over the years and the fish content is thick yet smooth.
Zurina Abu Bakar, 37, a housewife said that she grow with the Assam Laksa. The taste is totally different especially the taste of sour and hot. She also explained that Penang Assam Laksa does not eaten with eggs as usual.
“Asaam Laksa is part of me. Every week I will come and buy it. Once you try, you will addict to it,” she said.
Besides that, other famous dishes in Penang are like Sor Hor Fun, Char Koey Teow, Nasi Kandar, Koay teow th’ng, Banana Leaf Rice and Pasembur.
Penang Heritages
Penang also known with its fascinating places like Kek Lok Si, Acheen Street Mosque and Lorong Kulit. All these places are more interesting rather than new places such as new shopping complex, Queensbay Mall and Gurney Plaza.
Kek Lok Si had existed since 1905 and until today, these priceless heritage relics still exist in the temple archives.
Among the myriads of magnificent buildings found in the sprawling complex that constitute the Kek Lok Si, the one that stands out as a shining beacon is the Pagoda of Rama VI, the foundation stone of which was laid by the Thai monarch himself. Known popularly as the Wan Fo Pau T’a, or “Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas”, it towers just over a hundred feet and is reputed to be the largest pagoda in Malaysia.
Sitting in the center of the Hall of Heavenly Kings is the statue of Maitreya, the “Laughing Buddha”. Clutching a sack containing gifts of good luck for humanity, he radiates happiness and prosperity. He is the “Buddha of the Future”, or the “Buddha to Come”.
Often referred to as “the jewel in the crown of heritage temples” in Malaysia, the Kek Lok Si was initially established as a branch of the Buddhist “Vatican” in Fujian, China. Heavily influenced by the Mahayana Buddhist sect, the original complex consisted of a series of simple monasteries, prayer halls, and landscaped gardens.
Known not only for the beauty of its historic buildings (which attract thousands of tourists every year), the Kek Lok Si is first and foremost a centre and repository for Buddhist teaching and Chinese culture.
If Kek Lok Si for the Buddhist, Acheen Street Mosque is for Penang Muslim community. Established in 1808, the Acheen Street mosque is the oldest extant mosque in Penang and one of the most statuesque in Malaysia. Its architecture incorporates and reflects the various communities of Penang ,Achehnese, Anglo-Indian and Chinese. The influence of the latter is clearly seen in the pagodaesque octahedral minaret. The octadic form of the minaret is repeated in the inner and outer columns which flank the prayer aisles. Other interesting architectural features include the swallow-tailed roof, fanlights and well.
According to the history, during Japan’s war in Penang, this mosque had been exploded by bomb. Uniquely, the mosque was not damaged at all.
“My grandmother told me that this is the unique mosque because it had been bomb and it did not collapsed, still standing as where it was,” said Ahmad Daniel, 25, who stayed near the mosque.
The Acheen Street mosque is significant in more ways than one to the history of Penang. Its conservation not only restored the mosque itself and the surrounding properties but also revived the traditional and historical lifestyle and activities which used to govern the area. The result is a breathtaking image of the mosque and its immediate environment. The Acheen Mosque restoration clinched the Restoration and Preservation Award from the Ministry of Higher Education, Saudi Arabia in 1999. The award was conferred for the first time in conjunction with the centennial celebration of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia.
Actually, Penang is only a small island but rich with its heritages. Every single place has its own values which it is valuable. This is the main reason why Penang is being called as The Pearl of The Orient.